.All Trips / Argentina / South America

Graffitimundo: Graffiti as Street Art, Buenos Aires

Graffitimundo Buenos Aires 2014 110 Chacarita.   Jaz’s Tiger-football player hybrids

During our first day in Buenos Aires, we took a guided tour of its street art that was run by Graffitimundoa non-profit organization that promotes street art and artists in this city.  It was a very nice introduction to the the Argentine capital and to its very popular street art.

During my travels I’ve noticed more and more graffiti in major cities, and over the past decade especially there has been evolution of crude graffiti into art that’s often extremely interesting and of high quality.  It grabs your attention and makes you stop and study it, as good art should.  This is also true of Buenos Aires where street art began blossoming around the time of the financial crisis …

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.All Trips / Argentina / South America

Buenos Aires’ Jardin Botanico. A urban oasis

039 Buenos Aires Jardin Botanico 2014.  Fountain

Situated in Palermo, in the heart of Buenos Aires’ urban sprawl, is a lovely oasis of green, the Jardin Botanico.  The garden covers more than 7 hectares (17 acres) and brings together a large diversity of plant species (over 5500) in a setting that includes massive shade trees, many broad walking paths, fountains, statues, and places to sit and relax. Designed more than 100 years ago by French-borne architect and landscape designer Carlos Thays, in whose honor the garden is named, Jardin Botanico is a little run down (like much of the city is). Despite the need for repairs and more upkeep, the garden is a pleasant refuge on a hot day when you want to get away from the …

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.All Trips / Argentina / Food / South America

Mercado San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

San Telmo Market 2014 025

Markets are popular destinations for travelers and I’ve visited many of them during my travels.  Today I’d like to share with you the Mercado de San Telmo, a large and historic market in Buenos Aires.

One hundred and fifty years ago San Telmo was the most upscale barrio in Buenos Aires but it was mostly abandoned by its wealthy citizens during a yellow fever epidemic in the late 19th century, its residents moving more inland to neighborhoods extending from Recoleta to El Tigre.  Poorer people moved in to the abandoned homes which were usually subdivided into apartments and rented out.  Today, San Telmo is a state of “elegant decay” — beautiful crafted old buildings which are neglected and in need of …

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.All Trips / Argentina / South America

La Boca, Argentina. Colorful, gritty, tough.

La Baco 2014 007

Having just returned from a 3 week vacation to South America, I saw and photographed many fascinating places which I hope to share with you in the coming weeks.  I thought I’d start with the very last but most colorful place we visited.  La Boca (or Boca) is among the oldest “working class” neighborhoods in Buenos Aires.  Settled in the 19th century, mostly by poor Italian immigrants from Genoa, it was built adjoining the city’s old harbor on Rio Riachuelo.  As with much of Buenos Aires, it retains a distinct European flavor, but Boca has resisted gentrification — it seems to enjoy being the tough neighbor.

The immigrants homes in Boca, cobbled together some 150 years ago of wood and sheet metal and painted …

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