.All Trips / Argentina / South America

The Parana Delta and El Tigre, Argentina

03 El Tigre, Argentina 2014  (5)

El Tigre is situated an hour’s train ride from Buenos Aires, a trip that will cost you less than US$1 (departs from the Retiro station — linea Mitro).  You can also get there by taking a cab (more expensive but faster).  We enjoyed the slower train journey and were treated to an interesting assortment of vendors, panhandlers, and train performers all plying their business.  Trains sure are a great place to people watch.

We visited El Tigre as a day trip but I wished we’d stayed overnight so we could have explored the islands around it.  The region is green and lush and built astride a river which was flooded when we visited (the Parana River is prone to flooding).   El …

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.All Trips / Argentina / South America

The Church of our Lady of Pilar, Recoleta, Argentina

Buenos Aires Recoleta Cemeteryand Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Pilar tower  080

The historic and beautiful cathedral, Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Pilar (The Church of Our Lady of Pilar), is situated in the Buenos Aires neighborhood of Recoleta.  The church adjoins the famous Recoleta cemetery, which we’ve previously visited on this website.

Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Pilar is considered one of the most beautiful examples of Buenos Aires’ Colonial architecture.  It’s the city’s second oldest church and has retained its original altarpiece and icons.   The church is named in honor of the patron saint of the city of Zaragoza in Spain, and was completed in 1732.  Its original architect was a Jesuit, Andres Bianchi, and was built in conjunction with a convent of Franciscans.

Altarpiece, The Church of Our Lady of Pilar, Recoleta

Altarpiece, The Church of Our Lady of Pilar, Recoleta

The monks of Recoletos were expelled from …

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.All Trips / Argentina / South America

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires Recoleta Cemetery 066

Who would have guessed the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aires is found in a cemetery?  Not only is it expensive, there’s a line waiting to get in (seriously)!  You actually lease a plot here, as I understand it, and don’t permanently own it.  In the future your heirs can cancel the deal or let the lease expire, though it’s so prestigious to have a plot here few do.  Regardless, this piece of pricy land has become an interesting and popular tourist attraction.

Recoleta Cemetery is the final resting place of some of the richest and most important people in Argentina’s history, including politicians, Nobel prize winners, scientists and businessmen.  Obviously only wealthy people can afford the real estate (about …

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“Pic of the Week”, June 5, 2015: El Ateneo, Buenos Aires

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I love book and collect them (thousands of them — where to put them all?).  I make a point of visiting libraries and bookstores during my travels although sometimes these visits happen by accident.  So it was when I discovered El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore one evening in the Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires, as my wife and I were walking back to our hotel after dinner in a parrillo (Argentine steakhouse).

Buenos Aires is known as the “Paris of South America”.  Many elegant buildings were constructed a century ago when the country was one of the wealthiest in the world, before a string of progressively worse governments destroyed Argentina’s economy.  The result is a city that has a European …

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“Pic of the Week”, February 6, 2015: Well dressed trees

La Baco 2014 077

We’ve previously visited the colorful barrio of La Boca in Buenos Aires, Argentina.  La Boca, a tough blue collar neighborhood, is known for its flamboyantly colorful homes.  As I was going through my photos of this visit recently, I was reminded that not only are the homes brilliantly decorated, but so is the vegetation!  These colorful knit coverings were on the trees — even the fire hydrants!  It only adds to the many shades of La Boca.

Note sure I’ve ever been anyplace else that decorated trees with anything other than Christmas lights and related holiday decorations.  Have you?

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“Pic of the Week”, December 5, 2014: Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires Recoleta Cemetery and Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Pilar tower 071

Who would have thought the most desirable, the most expensive and exclusive real estate in Buenos Aires would be in this cemetery?  Recoleta cemetery is the resting place of many local celebrities and dignitaries, from politicians to business people to Nobel Prize winners, but by far it’s most famous grave here is that of Evita (Eva Peron).

Situated in the exclusive Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Recoleta cemetery is adjacent to Our Lady of Pilar church (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Pilar), built in 1732, whose tower you can see in the background of these photos.  The cemetery covers 14 acres and has just under 4700 permanent residents — not counting all the feral cats.  It’s mausoleums, statuary and …

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.All Trips / Argentina / Food / Food Tour / South America

A Tale of Two Food Tours: Buenos Aires, Argentina

San Telmo Food Tours 02-2014 (73)

It’s been my experience that food tours are growing in popularity across the globe.  If an army marches on its stomach, then so does the world’s growing flocks of tourists.  Experiencing local food for most travelers is an integral part of the travel experience — that’s certainly the case with me.

Food tours have an inherent appeal.  They can save you a lot of research time and are likely to give you a better dining experience than you’d find on your own.  You’re taken to a restaurant a local has selected as an excellent or high quality establishment indicative of that tour’s theme — local food, artisan food, etc.  Many of these restaurants are small “hole-in-the-wall” places that you’d be unlikely …

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.All Trips / Argentina / South America

Graffitimundo: Graffiti as Street Art, Buenos Aires

Graffitimundo Buenos Aires 2014 110 Chacarita.   Jaz’s Tiger-football player hybrids

During our first day in Buenos Aires, we took a guided tour of its street art that was run by Graffitimundoa non-profit organization that promotes street art and artists in this city.  It was a very nice introduction to the the Argentine capital and to its very popular street art.

During my travels I’ve noticed more and more graffiti in major cities, and over the past decade especially there has been evolution of crude graffiti into art that’s often extremely interesting and of high quality.  It grabs your attention and makes you stop and study it, as good art should.  This is also true of Buenos Aires where street art began blossoming around the time of the financial crisis …

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